≪パーカーポイント　８９‐９１点！≫
2022 Domaine Vincent Dauvissat Petit Chablis

The Wine Advocate
RP (89-91)
Reviewed by:William Kelley
Release Price:NA
Drink Date:N/A
Exhibiting aromas of sweet stone and orchard fruit mingled with lemon oil and clay liquor, Dauvissat's 2022 Petit Chablis is medium-bodied, ample and fleshy, with lively acids and a mouthwateringly mineral finish.

Vincent Dauvissat―who forsook a career as a shepherd to become one of France's most celebrated vignerons―is technically retired, but in reality remains very much a continuing presence at his eponymous domaine, and it was with him that I tasted the 2022s from barrel, along with a selection of 2021s. Spring frost in 2022, unlike in 2021, was followed immediately by warm weather, so the secondary buds flourished and delivered an ample, homogenous crop. As I wrote last year, there's no grower in the region who has done a better job of retaining all of Chablis's classical signatures in the warmer, sunnier vintages of the last decade, and this is once again true of 2022, which retains the tension and salinity one seeks at this address in a vintage where many others have produced extremely fruit-driven, soft wines.

If 2022 represents a success in Chablis's new paradigm, 2021 is a throwback, with higher acidity and a more reductive profile. "We picked just before gray rot began, but botrytis was rampant, which is why the wines have lost their green highlights this year," Vincent observed. Yet despite that, at this early stage the 2021s are less aromatically exotic than either 2013 or 2016 at the same point in time and seem set for a graceful evolution: readers might want to think of them as a somewhat fleshier, more generous version of the 2007 vintage at this address.

Readers will remember that farming here is organic but without certification. The harvest is by hand, and the wines ferment in tank before racking to barrel with the lees (Raveneau's Chablis, by contrast, are racked to barrel more or less without their lees), spending a second winter in wood before bottling. A first bottling, destined for the American market, sees a light filtration, while a second bottling―some of which is sealed with wax, some of which sees a foil capsule―takes place a little later in the year without filtration.

Published: Sep 08, 2023